The morning began like most with a brisk hike in the crisp mountain air amongst the twilight skies obscured by a blanket of pepper-colored clouds. The atmosphere was filled with the pleasant sounds of birds whistling, glacial streams trickling, and the satisfying crunch of gravel path beneath your feet. Surrounded by a landscape so diverse with powder-blue lakes, majestic metamorphic-capped peaks, deep green tree-bearing safe havens, and blue-speckled glaciers nestled atop the tallest mountains…
This is Patagonia.
What We Did
Santiago, Chile
One of our friends took us on an amazing bike ride down the nearby ski mountain. He runs his own adventure business. Definitely check him out at SANTIAGO ROCKON!
We walked around downtown and got a great view of the city at Sky Costanera. Be extra aware of your surroundings, because Santiago is known to have talented pick-pocketers.
Quick travel side note: Uber isn't technically legal in Chile, but we were able to hail them in Santiago with no issue.
Viña del Mar & Valparaíso, Chile
Day trip through Viator.com: ~$90 --> Would recommend --> Could use more historical commentary.
Moai statue at the Museo de Arqueología e Historia Francisco Fonck.
Reloj de Flores (Flower Clock).
Los Pomairinos for lunch and beach stroll. We were lucky to have uncharacteristically clear blue skies.
Walked the vibrant and graffiti-ridden streets of Valparaíso.
Wine tasting at Viña Indómita: Stunningly beautiful view and wished we would have been able to stay here for longer.
Patagonia - Torres del Paine, Chile
Flight from Santiago to Punta Arenas: $100 roundtrip.
Bus transit between Punta Arenas and Puerto Natales: $24 Roundtrip --> ~3 hours one-way. Our travel agency was able to book this on our behalf.
Geomorphology note: Check out the drumlins along the way (glacially-formed hills).
Torres del Paine "W" Trek, led by Carla and Fernando with Chile Nativo: ~$1,795 --> 5 days --> HIGHLY RECOMMEND.
Information session the evening of Day 0. Day 1 began with a 7 AM departure for Refugio Torres Central (about a 2-hour drive). The guides picked up each guest from his/her hostel or Airbnb.
Hiking poles are highly recommended. If you're unsure whether or not you should use them, snag a pair just in case.
The Chile Nativo trip takes you from Refugio Torres Central to Refugio Grey (east to west).
Our tips:
Bare landscape can make for some harsh winds.
Sometimes it'll get cloudy, but if it's safe, "Go for that extra hike" anyway. There may be times you'll be given a choice to see something or not due to clouds/fog. This happened to us twice. The second time, we chose to hike to the Britanico Lookout, which ended up being one of our favorite spots.
Hike Glacier Grey if you can. The footing can be a bit intimidating at times and the weather rainy, but we very much recommend doing this if you get the chance!
Try to get on the earlier Lago Grey boat ride, as it often doesn't run due to wind (you'd have to hike back to take the Lago Pehoé boat, otherwise).
Torres del Paine Refugios
In general, the refugios all had hot water, prepared meals, packed lunches, and credit card-accepting bars (but, no shampoo, conditioner, etc.). There is Wi-Fi for purchase, but we decided to stay off the grid. You generally stay in a dorm-like room with three to five other trekkers in a bunkbed setup.
Refugio Torres Central: Privately-owned by Fantastico Sur.
Incredible views of Las Torres.
Workers went on strike the morning we left. They get paid the equivalent of $20 USD/day.
Refugio Los Cuernos: Privately-owned by Fantastico Sur.
We camped in the propped-up tents at this one. It was very cozy, but the wind made it a little difficult to sleep.
Workers were also on strike here. We were still able to eat, shower, and camp (but no cerveza or vino that night).
Refugio Paine Grande: Government-owned.
By far my favorite refugio, solely because the bar is on the second story with a beautiful view of Lago Pehoé.
Refugio Grey: Government-owned.
Nestled in the woods where several "W" and "O" trek travelers meet, which makes for a fun and lively evening.
Food
Our good friends, who were so generous to host us, recommended the following food during our stay:
Machas a la parmesana: grilled cheese on shellfish.
Pastel de jaiva: crab mixed with cheese, cream milk, and bread crumbs.
Congrio frito con arroz o papas freitas: classic Chilean fish with potatoes or rice.
Reineta a la plancha con salsa de mariscos: mild-tasting fish on shellfish sauce.
Camarones al pil pil: shrimp on garlic oil.
After our trip, one of our guides in Patagonia, Carla-Paz, opened her own restaurant in Valparaíso - Peregrina Cafe & Travel Center. We can't wait to check it out the next time we're in Chile.
Pisco Sours: Definitely try it! Especially if it's made with egg white.
Piscola: Similar to a rum and coke, which can be nice and refreshing.
Puerto Natales
Kawesqar Café: Delectable meats and wine, very cozy.
Base Camp: Incredible food, drink, and hospitality.
Santiago
Prego Tratoria: Do not recommend.
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